Dogs can pick up fleas from other animals or straight from their environment: long grass, gardens, or that one mysterious patch they absolutely must investigate. A flea only needs a split second to hop on and make your dog ‘home’. And they’re a year-round nuisance. 
Mild winters help more fleas survive into spring, and our warm homes give flea eggs the perfect hatching conditions. By Summer, there are so many in the environment that dogs can easily collect a few passengers unless they’re protected.

Adult fleas are tiny. 1–3mm, dark brown, and surprisingly fast on their feet. On short, pale coats, you may spot them darting around like they own the place. On thicker or darker coats, it’s easier to look for flea dirt, which is tiny black specks at the base of the hair. To check, comb your dog with a fine-toothed flea comb onto damp tissue. If the specks turn red, that’s flea faeces, which means they have fleas.

Not exactly. Each species technically has its own flea, but cat fleas are the real troublemakers. They’re happy to feed on almost any animal. Dogs can also pick up fleas from wildlife like foxes, badgers, deer and hedgehogs, and even from birds.

Fleas are common, so there’s no shortage of treatments: sprays, spot-ons, tablets, collars, and the rest. But one truth applies to all of them: they don’t create a forcefield. Fleas can still hop on, the treatment just makes sure they don’t stay long. Here’s what to remember: 

• Treat every dog and cat in the house (fleas are equal-opportunities pests). 
• You may still see fleas for up to 24 hours: they’re in the eviction process. 
• Use treatments exactly as directed. 
• If the situation gets out of control, have a chat with your vet team. Many practices offer subscription plans that keep flea and worm treatment going all year.

Even better yet, put your mind at ease and sign-up to our health plan. With our health plan subscription you get all-round parasite protection personalised to your pet, delivered free straight through your letterbox, so you never miss a dose. Check out our health plans here.

Puppies need regular flea treatments too. Your vet will guide you through the safest choices during your first visit. When your pup is growing and still finding its feet, flea protection needs to fit just right.

Before you begin, it’s a good idea to weigh your pet, so that you can work out the best dosage for their treatment. 

Spot-on treatments 

Applied to the skin between the shoulders. Different medications suit different dogs: your vet will help you pick the right one. They need to reach the skin, not just sit on the fur. They can leave a temporary sticky patch (your dog will cope, your sofa might not). Some cover fleas and ticks; prescription versions may also cover mites and various types of worms. 

Shampoos & powders 

Great for right now but offer no ongoing protection. Think of them as a quick rinse, not your main flea-fighting strategy. After you’ve bathed them, it’s a good idea to have a go with a quality flea comb. 

Tablets 

These work from the inside out, so baths and puddle-jumping won’t wash them away. 

Prescription tablets usually last 1 or 3 months (depending on product). Some over-the-counter tablets last 24 hours. Perfect for a fast clear-out, but not a long-term plan. Some cover fleas and ticks; others add worm protection too. You can also now buy chewable tablets, which are a gamechanger for dogs that struggle with traditional pills. 

Flea collars 

Non-prescription collars release medication across the skin and coat. Some last up to eight months. They must fit snugly, not tightly. They’re not the best choice for swimmers or bath enthusiasts. Care should be taken when using them, particularly on outdoor cats who may become trapped or caught by the collar. These collars can also cause skin irritation in some pets.  

Usually up to 24 hours, although many products act faster. If you see them doing a victory lap, just know that they’re on their last legs.

If you have multiple cats or dogs in the household, you’ll need to treat them all, even if they have no signs of fleas. To effectively banish fleas, you also need to treat your house, for example with a household flea spray. But make sure to use it on your home, never your dog. Hoover thoroughly first. Then spray carpets, rugs, sofas, and under cushions; anywhere fleas like to lurk. Be sure to remove fish, reptiles, birds and small pets before treating as these sprays can be fatal to these species. Also make sure to wash all dog bedding on a hot wash.

There’s no one-size-fits-all solution. But here are a few things to think about: 

Dogs who swim or get regular baths tend to do better with tablets, which obviously can’t be washed off mid–paddle. Bathing immediately after a spot-on can be damaging to the environment, as well as making the product less effective. Tablets can be kinder than spot-ons or collars for dogs who react to anything touching their skin. 

Always seek vet advice for support on which product to use. 

Fleas aren’t impressed by bubble baths or blow-dries. They’re equal-opportunity jumpers, happy to hop on any dog that crosses their path. A spotless coat doesn’t make a dog flea-proof, it just means the stowaways are easier to spot once they’ve made themselves at home.

Because treatments don’t completely prevent fleas, they work by catching them once they land. New arrivals can still hop on and even bite, but they don’t stay long. If fleas keep reappearing, it’s often because the house is doing the heavy lifting for them. The lifecycle of a flea is three months, so you need to ensure that any treatments used will last this long. A one-off monthly product won’t be enough.

They do, because fleas don’t follow the seasons, they follow warmth. Heated homes keep their life cycle ticking along nicely, even when the weather outside is cold. Year-round protection stops parasites from getting a foothold and keeps itching from becoming a recurring theme.